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National Geographic
8 hours ago
- National Geographic
Why the Balkans should be your next summer destination
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). A complicated region with an extraordinarily rich cultural heritage, Europe's beautiful Balkan lands have been passed through and fought over by civilisations including the Romans, Greeks and Ottomans for more than a millennium. As a result, the term 'Balkans' is one of the slipperiest geographical descriptions in Europe. Broadly speaking it applies to the peninsula that stretches throughout southeastern Europe and ends in Greece. But where it begins — like many things in the Balkans — is a question of politics and perspective. Mainstream travel has been slow to take root in many of the region's countries, but things are gradually starting to change. As beach-holiday destinations go, this coastline is hard to top, offering a winning combination of crystalline coves, ancient settlements and delicious Mediterranean cuisine, all set before a backdrop of craggy mountains. The clear waters of the Adriatic and Ionian seas have been drawing admirers to these shores since ancient times, as demonstrated by the remains of sumptuous Roman residences positioned on some of the most beautiful bays. The most famous of these is Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace, which now forms the heart of Split, Croatia's second-largest city. Some of the Balkan peninsula countries are already firmly on the tourism radar, notably Slovenia, Croatia, Greece and, increasingly, the coastal parts of Montenegro and Albania. The famous walled towns of the coast — such as Dubrovnik in Croatia and Kotor in Montenegro — continue to charm, despite now being crammed with tourists in July and August. But the Balkans offer far more than just sunny beaches and crowded coastal cities. Head inland and you'll find a corner of Europe where it's still possible to access real wilderness, with bears, wolves and lynx roaming remote ranges and forgotten forests. To beat the crowds and chase adventure, plan a trip to the smaller, less-explored countries of the Western Balkans. Combined, the five we've highlighted below are roughly the same size as England. With two weeks to spare you could easily get a taste for each. Alternatively, pick just one or two for longer stays. From delicious Mediterranean cuisine to historic towns set to a backdrop of craggy mountains, Balkans offer far more than just sunny beaches. Photograph by David C Tomlinson; Getty Images Bosnia and Herzegovina Best for: urban exploration With idyllic settings in river valleys ringed by mountains, Bosnia and Herzegovina's capital Sarajevo and historic centre of Mostar are two of the most beautiful and fascinating cities in the Balkans. Both suffered dreadfully during the 1990s wars and are still divided along ethnic lines, but the historic mosques, churches, synagogues and markets have now been restored and the streets once again hum with life. Sarajevo's old Ottoman core, Baščaršija, is back to being one of the region's most memorable and enchanting city neighbourhoods, where narrow lanes wind past old bazaars and pigeon-filled squares, and the scent of grilled meat, strong Bosnian coffee and shisha smoke swirls in the air. Mostar's famous 16th-century bridge — destroyed in 1993 — has been rebuilt and once more arcs elegantly over the green waters of the Neretva River. It forms the centrepiece of a heritage quarter of stone houses punctuated by the pencil-thin minarets of Ottoman mosques. The historic centre of Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the Balkans most fascinating cities. Photograph by Lassi Kurkijarvi; Getty Images (How to spend a perfect weekend in Bosnia & Herzegovina.) Kosovo Best for: adventure Montenegro may be small, but Kosovo is smaller still. Since declaring independence from Serbia in 2008, this little landlocked nation has started to gain a reputation as an active-holiday destination for intrepid travellers. The pretty town of Peja — with its Byzantine and Ottoman architecture — is at the centre of the action. There's excellent hiking, caving and zip-lining in the surrounding area, as well as a vertigo-inducing via ferrata course in Rugova Canyon — but it's all still very off the beaten track for most travellers. Peja lies at the base of the formidable range known as the Accursed Mountains (Bjeshkët e Nemuna in Albanian, Prokletije in Serbian), which forms the border with Montenegro and Albania. This remote area is one of Europe's true wildernesses. It's now possible to take a multiday hike through the rugged terrain, traversing all three countries, on the 119-mile Peaks of the Balkans track. Trekkers stay in a mixture of family homes and mountain huts. This off-the-grid adventure can also be broken into bite-sized chunks, but shouldn't be undertaken lightly. It's best to enlist the services of a local operator such as Undiscovered Balkans or Balkan Natural Adventure to help with guiding and logistics, including arranging the correct permits for the border crossings. (Europe's newest adventure scene is blossoming in southern Kosovo.) Montenegro Best for: diverse landscapes Montenegro is tiny — smaller than Northern Ireland — but it crams a lot in. The 'black mountain' that it's named after rises precipitously from the fjord-like Bay of Kotor, creating a spectacular backdrop to the medieval walls of Kotor town. South east of here, Montenegro's Adriatic coastline stretches barely 62 miles as the crow flies but still manages to pack in three more picture-perfect walled towns: Budva, Sveti Stefan and Ulcinj. Inland it's mainly mountains, punctuated by deep river canyons and glistening lakes. These range from the tiny glacial depressions known as gorske oči (mountain eyes) that are a feature of rugged Durmitor National Park, to the largest lake in the Balkans, Lake Skadar, which is an important habitat for wetland birds including giant Dalmatian pelicans. The everchanging scenery makes driving in Montenegro a constant thrill, especially once you escape the crowded coast. The terrain lends itself to myriad summertime activities: canyoning at Nevidio Canyon on the Komarnica River, whitewater rafting on the Tara River and birdwatching cruises on Lake Skadar, to name just a few. For hiking, base yourself in the mountain towns of Cetinje, Kolašin or Žabljak, which are the gateways to three lofty national parks: Lovćen, Biogradska Gora and Durmitor. A fourth range, Prokletije, on the border with Albania and Kosovo, is home to Montenegro's highest peak (8,316ft). (The ultimate Adriatic coastal adventure in Montenegro's Bay of Kotor.) The deep river canyons of Durmitor National Park in Montenegro are well-suited for all manner of adventures. Photograph by FotoGablitz; Getty Images Albania Best for: beaches Albania's long and lovely coastline stretches along two separate seas: the Adriatic and the Ionian. The Ionian, in particular, has some magnificent beaches, where the turquoise waters of southwestern Albania approach Caribbean levels of intensity. If you were hoping to chance upon uncrowded and undeveloped bays in Albania, that ship has sailed. The Ionian coast is now being touted as the 'Albanian Riviera' and construction can be seen everywhere, especially in popular places like Ksamil. That said, busy spots such as Mirror Beach (Plazhi Pasqyra) are popular for a reason — the juxtaposition of aquamarine waters and dramatic white cliffs is breathtaking. Tucked below canyon walls, Gjipe is similarly spectacular — and the fact that it can only be reached by boat or on foot helps to keep visitor numbers down. Other low-key stretches on the riviera include 4.3-mile-long Borsh and sleepy Qeparo. As appealing as the beaches are, it would be a shame to visit Albania and ignore the interior. The 'museum cities' of Berat and Gjirokastër are fascinating due to their high concentration of Ottoman houses, their elegant wooden upper storeys jutting out over the narrow streets. Tirana is one of the Balkans' buzziest capitals, a lively hybrid of Ottoman remnants, Communist-era blocks painted in outlandish colours and new construction. If you want to get further off the beaten track, Undiscovered Balkans offers multi-activity Albanian holidays which include hiking, rafting, mule treks and village feasts. (Take a journey through Albania's wild, blue heart.) North Macedonia Best for: food Despite remarkable mountains, lakes and historic sites, North Macedonia is blissfully unassuming and largely untroubled by overtourism. The town of Ohrid is one of the country's biggest drawcards for its frescoed Orthodox churches, boat trips and lake-fronting boardwalks. But the country's rural areas are a real treat — particularly Mavrovo and Pelister national parks, which lend themselves to leisurely drives stopping at village taverns and roadside produce stalls. Five hundred years of Ottoman rule have had a noticeable impact on the food, which is more varied than most other Western Balkan cuisines and less averse to spice. Ajvar is a case in point. This delicious red pepper and aubergine spread can pack some real heat and is found on the menu at many local restaurants. Grilled meats also feature prominently, as they do throughout the Balkans, but the national dish is vegan: a white bean stew known as tavče gravče. Local markets are packed with mountain herbs, local honeys and tangy hard cheeses, which also make an appearance on rural guesthouse breakfast tables. Be sure to try the local tipples, too. These include mastika (a liqueur flavoured with tree resin) and wines from the Tikveš Plain made from lesser-known regional grape varietals such as Smederevka, Vranec and Temjanika. The region is around 90 minutes south east of the capital Skopje; travellers can while away a day or two here, staying at the Popova Kula winery hotel. (A taste of North Macedonia, from flaky burek to rakija and farmhouse cheeses.) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
12 hours ago
- National Geographic
Is this Canadian festival the best place to see grey whales?
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Stand on the western shores of Vancouver Island in March and you'll spot some of British Columbia's most famous visitors. Each spring, thousands of grey whales glide past this stretch of coast on their journey from the warm breeding waters of Mexico to the nutrient-rich waters of Alaska — a round trip of up to 15,000 miles, making it the longest mammal migration on Earth. In the mid-1980s, Brian Congdon, a resident of Ucluelet on the west coast of Vancouver Island, had an idea. He wanted to celebrate this natural spectacle with a home-grown festival, much like those he'd seen in California. Drawing on his experience running a whale-watching tour company, he brought together volunteers and local authorities, devised an events programme and the Pacific Rim Whale Festival was born. Taking place in the coastal towns of Tofino and Ucluelet, as well as throughout the Pacific Rim Reserve, the festival runs for a week at the height of the whale migration (around March every year), with ample opportunity to spot these graceful giants. A busy calendar of events includes panel discussions, wildlife-watching trips and hands-on workshops honouring the traditions of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations, for whom the grey whale has long held cultural significance. Though the festival has evolved since Brian first envisioned it more than 30 years ago, its mission remains unchanged: to raise awareness of grey whales and support their long-term protection. The Huu-ay-aht First Nation Community offers village tours for visitors to the Pacific Rim Whale Festival; Photograph by Mark McKeough Festival highlights Naturally, the wonders of the ocean take centre stage. At the Whale Spotting from Shore session at Amphitrite Point Lighthouse, naturalists and marine biologists will be on hand to explain the fascinating behaviour of grey whales, which — with a dash of luck — can be spotted from the coast. But getting out on the open water is the most exhilarating way to see these majestic beasts in action. Local operators offer boat and sea kayak trips off the coast, and whale-watching company Subtidal Adventures runs three-hour Marine Mammal Research Days as part of the festival. On rigid inflatable boat excursions into Barkley Sound, experts will share tips on identifying individual whales and unpick some of the animals' unique behaviours, from lobbing and fluking to breaching — a breathtaking sight on any whale-watching cruise. Spring also marks the herring spawn season, when countless herring lay their eggs off the coast, turning the shallows into a cloudy swirl of turquoise. The spawning is doubly spectacular for the wealth of wildlife it attracts, from hungry seabirds and eagles swooping overhead to seals, sea lions and even black bears, which have been known to graze on the eggs at low tide. Visitors can learn even more about local marine life at the Beach Seine with Ucluelet Aquarium, on Terrace Beach. Using a seine net, aquarium staff carefully catch (and then release) an array of ocean critters — from shallow-dwelling crustaceans to Pacific Ocean perch — demonstrating how the underwater ecosystems connect them. There's plenty on land to enjoy, too. Tofino comes alive with music for the Parade of Whales and Wonder, where local community groups display imaginative ocean-themed floats, while the Maritime Kids Day in Tofino and Ucluelet promise plenty of interactive craft and science sessions for a fun-filled introduction to marine biology. On the final day, Wick Beach in Ucluelet will play host to a morning of family-friendly fun, including the ever-popular Tug-O-Whale challenge, as well as the Nuu-chah-nulth storytelling session, which brings First Nations traditions to life. The Surfrider Foundation Pacific Rim joined the Pacific Rim Whale Festival and organised Coastal Canada Whales Festival beach clean-ups around the shore. Photograph by Andi Wardrop Get involved The Pacific Rim Whale Festival runs two types of event: button events, all of which guests access by purchasing a badge (with a suggested donation for each one), and events that require the purchase of a ticket to attend, which are available from the website under each specific event. These are run on a first come, first served basis, and some — particularly the Marine Mammal Research days — are very popular, so book well in advance. Those keen on helping to organise, marshal or meet-and-greet during the festival can find out more on the 'Volunteering' page. The action mostly takes place between the surfing hotspot of Tofino and laid-back Ucluelet, which are around half-an-hour's drive apart. Most accommodation options can be found in and around each town; try 1970s-inspired Hotel Zed Tofino, or Ucluelet's Snug Harbour Inn, whose fresh and breezy rooms overlook the ocean. When it comes to the weather, March on Vancouver Island can be chilly, with highs of around 12C, and rain showers are common. Events are held in a variety of indoor and outdoor venues, so pack accordingly. Of course, the festival is only part of the appeal in this rugged corner of Vancouver Island. Strike out on the Wild Pacific Trail, a five-mile walking route that twists along the coast around Ucluelet, through craggy cedar forests and around storm-battered lighthouses, or sea kayak around the Broken Group Islands, scattered through Barkley Sound. For a true sense of adventure, escape to Hot Springs Cove — accessible only by boat or floatplane — and swim beneath geothermal waterfalls as they tumble down to the sea. Published in the Coastal Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
a day ago
- National Geographic
10 places to stay while you're at Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park welcomes approximately four million visitors every year. Not surprisingly, travelers from around the world are drawn to the 748,000 acres of natural beauty which include Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, El Capitan, Glacier Point, numerous waterfalls, and Mariposa Grove, where visitors can walk through a giant sequoia. With so much to see and do, visitors to the national park should consider finding a home base nearby to allow enough time for a multi-day adventure to explore. Outdoor enthusiasts looking for an ideal place to stay should check into these 10 places to stay in and near Yosemite National Park, each offering something for every type of traveler. (Related: Here's everything to know about Yosemite National Park.) 1. The Ahwahnee, Yosemite Valley Best for: Architecture lovers Built in 1927 and designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood, the Ahwahnee is a stellar example of National Park Rustic Architecture, fondly called 'parkitecture' by park service staff. This style involves using stonework and concrete, disguised as wood, to help buildings visually melt into nature. The Ahwahnee sits at the base of a sheer granite cliff, and its interiors include Native American designs on tiles and stenciling, 34-foot windows with views of Half Dome, and an astonishing amalgam of Art Deco, Arts & Crafts, and Middle Eastern styles found in its furnishings, rugs, beams, and fireplaces. 'We're running a hotel out of a museum,' says front desk manager Cole Estrada. Good to know: For more privacy, guests can elect to forego the main lodge in favor of small cottages in the forest. 2. Château du Sureau, Oakhurst Best for: European luxury Referencing Versailles may be putting it too boldly, but this five-star resort is an opulent sprawl. Guestrooms open with an iron key, and each has beautiful textiles and antique furnishings that evoke the French countryside. Instead of a lobby, Château du Sureau has a grand sitting room with a library, where guests can play games, read, or play the piano. It's a half hour from the South Gate, well worth the drive to be enveloped in luxury. Good to know: The on-site restaurant, the Elderberry House, is helmed by head chef Ethan de Graaf and showcases an exquisite three- or five-course tasting menu. Serving French cuisine with Japanese and American influences, the restaurant's must-try menu items include a red wine demi-glace that takes two days to prepare and is served on most entrées. Other favorites include the Brandt Farm ribeye and the cherry wood old fashioned are favorites. The latter is served with a tableside presentation of releasing the trapped cherry wood smoke infused into the drink; its orange oleo ingredient is prepped ahead of time and sits for several days marinating. (Related: Discover the best day hikes in Yosemite National Park.) 3. Yosemite View Lodge, El Portal Best for: Tranquility Located a five-minute drive from Yosemite's Arch Rock entrance, Yosemite View Lodge provides a serene setting where guests can sit on the balcony and hear the calming sounds of the Merced River which runs through the property. If possible, book a river view room on the ground floor to be mere inches from the water. It's a priceless experience. Good to know: If you can't score a river view room, bask in one of seven on-site hot tubs with mountain views to relax your hike-weary body. 4. Firefall Ranch, Groveland Best for: Families Opened in May 2024, this newer hotel located a half hour from the Big Oak Flat entrance is a goldmine for families. Firefall Ranch's outdoor heated pool is open 24 hours, a boon for active kids (and sleepless adults). Individual cabins encircle a frog-laden pond, and on-site amenities and activities include a mini golf course, climbing wall, nightly s'mores, and guided art activities to keep kids busy. According to the property's General Manager Joe Juszkiewicz, the ranch started offering horseback riding on its extensive acreage in April. Good to know: For a family activity that merges nature and sports, try the ranch's forest disc golf course. It features 18 holes across 300 acres. As the hotel's name alludes, a seasonal package in February called the Firefall Express brings guests into Yosemite to see the Firefall phenomenon where a portion of El Capitan appears to be aflame; other excursions can be booked as well. (Related: These are the 10 most popular national parks.) 5. Sierra Sky Ranch, Oakhurst Best for: History and ghost lovers The 150-year-old Sierra Sky Ranch has a long history and ghosts. This was once California's largest cattle ranch with 4,000 head of cattle but it also served other purposes over the years. It housed tuberculosis patients, and after World War II, it became a rest home for shell-shocked U.S. servicemen. With such a varied history, the ranch has become the permanent home to guests who can't seem to 'check out,' including farmhand Elmer and Sarah, a nurse from the sanatorium days. Ask at the front desk to review the book with previous guests' handwritten ghost encounters. You might end up adding a 'ghost-encounter' entry before leaving this historic ranch. Good to know: Your drive to the South Gate entrance is only 20 minutes. Stop halfway to visit the Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad for a scenic ride on a whistling steam locomotive through the Sierra National Forest. 6. Lodge at Tenaya, Fish Camp Best for: Rustic elegance At the Lodge at Tenaya, just six minutes from the South Gate, the luxurious lobby boasts a lofty ceiling and elaborate iron chandeliers with dozens of tapers, borrowing vibes from the 'parkitecture' era even though the lodge was built in 1990. People gather near the impressive stone fireplace to play chess and chat with strangers. Ascent, The Spa at Tenaya upscales the experience with a relaxation lounge, steam and sauna rooms, and complimentary yoga classes. Good to know: Guests can book a private cottage or, better yet, an Explorer Cabin with exclusive golf cart use, views of the nearby creek, meadow, or pond, and access to the Explorer Clubhouse with complimentary snacks and wine. Explorer Cabin #41 is completely solar-powered. (Related: See what national parks in the United States first looked like.) 7. Yosemite Valley Lodge, Yosemite Valley Best for: Access to the continent's highest waterfall The motel-style rooms at the Yosemite Valley Lodge are clean and serviceable but dated—but that's negligible considering you're an easy walk to Yosemite Falls, North America's highest waterfall. With three separate drops, it plunges 2,245 feet and is visible and audible from the lodge. Good to know: This is also the closest lodge to the seasonal Firefall phenomenon; you can walk 40 minutes, drive five minutes, or take the free shuttle to the El Capitan picnic area for optimum viewing. 8. Curry Village, Yosemite Valley Best for: Valley views Guests staying at the historic Curry Village (1899) will have a stunning view of Half Dome and Sentinel Dome. It features 424 tent cabins (wooden framework with white canvas stretched over it), providing an interesting hybrid of cabin and tent, or choose from 46 traditional cabins or 18 motel rooms. Curry Village offers guests immediate sightlines to waterfalls, meadows, and dramatic rock faces. Good to know: In winter, a skating rink goes up for the thrill of carving ice under the majestic rise of granite cliffs. (Related: Avoid the crowds at the 10 least-visited U.S. national parks.) 9. Hotel Charlotte, Groveland Best for: Exploring a historic town Charlotte DeFerrari was an enterprising immigrant from Italy who built this 1921 National Register hotel 30 minutes from the Big Oak Flat entrance. Groveland is the quintessential Gold Rush town with a mercantile store that serves ice cream, a tiny jail (1895) no longer in use, and the Groveland Yosemite Gateway Museum. The Hotel Charlotte is across the street from the Iron Door Saloon (1852), said to be the oldest saloon in California. Good to know: Plan a picnic and spend the day at Rainbow Pool, located 10 minutes away from Hotel Charlotte. Fed by a small mountain stream, this swimming hole was originally a stagecoach stop. Adventurous travelers can go whitewater rafting on the Tuolumne River where the gold rushers once plied for gold. The Tuolumne boasts 40 rapids in an 18-mile stretch. Outfitters, such as Sierra Mac River Trips and Arta River Trips, can arrange your whitewater voyage. 10. Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort, Midpines Best for: A social California vibe 'Berkeley' meets Yosemite at the hillside Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort, which began in the 1930s as a Boy Scout camp. This casual spot 25 minutes from the Arch Rock entrance offers stilt cabins, hotel-style rooms, youth hostel bunk bedrooms, glamping tent cabins, and the Starlite House, a rustic space with a 1970s hippie vibe that sleeps seven people. Guests who don't know each other can slide into the communal 10-person stainless steel tub, visit the cedar-walled sauna, join a yoga session, and eat together in this spot that feels like a European hostel with a California vibe. Good to know: At the spa, the 'hiker's massage treatment' dials back stiffness from climbing Vernal Fall or any of Yosemite's strenuous hikes. The spa has many sets of stairs, so guests who may have issues walking or have other physical challenges should let the resort know when booking an appointment. Erika Mailman is a northern California-based writer who covers art, architecture, and travel. Follow her on Instagram.
National Geographic
a day ago
- National Geographic
Why June is the best month to visit this U.S. Virgin Island
It turns out that the grass actually is greener in St. Thomas—sea turtle grass, that is, for those traveling in June. This sweet spot, after the bustle and beats of carnival season concludes across most of the Caribbean, is both an ecologist's paradise and a deal-hunter's delight. Canopies of fire-red flamboyant flowers blanket the island, complementing the hue of mangoes that hang lush and ripe. Nesting season starts for green sea turtles, which are drawn not only to shore to lay their eggs, but to the shallow-water grasses that serve as their feeding grounds. As summer kicks off, trade winds have died down, meaning novice swimmers, sailors, and snorkelers have calmer waters. St. Thomas is one of the rare destinations where 'shoulder season' actually means sun-kissed shoulders, not an abundance of rain or scorching heat. It is the mid-sized sister of the other U.S. Virgin Islands—a triad that also includes St. John and St. Croix. Charlotte Amalie, on the southern side, is the capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Photograph by Starcevic, Getty Images June is the golden time to spread out a beach blanket—liberally, when the sands aren't crowded—and dine at restaurants that are easier to get into. Much of what's served will be seasonal catches like marlin, bonefish, and tarpon from the Caribbean Sea. The Caribbean's slower season means rates at hotels (moderate and luxury alike) are up to half-off what they'd be during early spring and the holidays, making it another reason why June is the best time to visit. What to see and do Snorkeling It's not unusual to see Virgin Islanders pop open the trunk of their car and pull out snorkel gear for an impromptu dip—it's that easy to spot vibrant fish and marine life at any of the plentiful public beaches year-round. But in June, there are even more chances to luck out with sea turtle sightings. St. Thomas hot-spots include Secret Harbour Beach and the aptly named Turtle Cove, where leatherback, hawksbill, and green sea turtles are far from shy. Novice snorkelers will want to check out Brewers Bay, which has less coral to navigate and a sandy bottom with the sea grass that green sea turtles love to eat. Nesting season starts for green sea turtles, which are drawn to shore to lay their eggs. Photograph by Douglas Rissing, Getty Images Charter a boat CrewZen owner and boat captain Kevin McCartney creates custom itineraries that circumnavigate St. Thomas or go out toward the other U.S. or British Virgin Islands. McCartney often goes to Lovango Resort & Beach Club, where guests can get a day-pass for this private island between St. Thomas and St. John. His other recommendation is to go swimming or snorkeling before visiting Lime Out, a floating taco bar accessible only by boat. Phantasea Tropical Botanical Garden Architect Patsy Breunlin has built a hilltop garden filled with the heady scent of lilies and orchids that bend in colorful splendor, ripe for leisurely walks. Wildlife includes lizards, parrots, and peacocks, and it's likely visitors will spot bananaquits, the yellow-bellied birds of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Where to shop St. Thomas has twice the duty-free allowance of most Caribbean destinations. Each U.S. citizen (including children) can bring home up to $1,600 worth of goods without paying sales tax. The Creative Native The Creative Native is part art gallery, part history museum. Owner and photographer Ama Dennis, whose family has lived on the triad of St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix for six generations, welcomes guests with a smile and a signature greeting: 'I don't sell art—I tell stories of the Virgin Islands.' Fish Face The aquatic photography is what started it all at Fish Face, an apparel, jewelry, and photography boutique in Palm Passage courtyard. Co-owners Kris Wall and Carrell "CW" Abbott left their corporate jobs to open the shop in 2008. Since then, they've expanded from Wall's colorful images of parrotfish, seahorses, and octopuses to other art and housewares from creators across the Caribbean. Where to eat and drink Blue 11 Splurge on a seven-, nine-, or 11-course tasting menu at Blue 11, where chef David 'Benji' Benjamin spotlights what's local and fresh. Bites typically include seared red snapper atop a warm citrus salad, and wahoo with pickled green mango. Or, check out Benji's other more casual restaurant, Indigo 4, for signatures like conch chowder. King of the Wing Festival Although Carnival season has concluded by June, there is one celebration that remains: King of the Wing Festival (June 14, 2025). Amateur and professional cooks compete for all the sweet, savory, and spicy chicken wing glory on the island, with proceeds benefiting local charities. de Frenchtown Bar Plates at the casual bistro are loaded with oxtail, jerk chicken, pulled pork, or pork ribs. Every now and then cornmeal-based fungi (foon-gee) dumplings are featured, and they go quickly. Pizza Pi St. Thomas' sailboat pizzeria is not to be missed. While the slices are divine (try the Peachy Goat with basil and a balsamic glaze), this Christmas Cove hot spot is also a floating bar with frozen cocktail-like concoctions. Locally inspired favorites include the Bushwacker, a piña colada and chocolate milkshake mashup that was invented in St. Thomas. For those who can't resist having a second—or even third—Pizza Pi has shuttle service options. Alloro The balmy temperatures in June are ideal for al fresco dining at Alloro. Cocktail connoisseurs don't want to miss out on the signature martini, featuring Prosecco, cointreau, citrus, and basil grown on-site. Explore like a local Beaches Magens Bay's smooth sands and calm waters are a crowd-pleaser, but for beachfront with more locals than tourists, visit the crystalline waters of Coki Beach. Even novice snorkelers will feel like they're swimming in an aquarium. June's calm waters make snorkeling an ideal activity on St. Thomas. Photograph by Westend61, Getty Images Dine & Dash Food Tours Exploring like a local is easy when you're with a local. Get a taste of six local specialties—like patés, savory empanada-like hand pies—when you travel from one end of the island to the other with Dine & Dash founder Desireè 'Dez' Wilkes. Expect food for thought along the way, with a rich history lesson that goes back as far as when Wilkes' family made their way to the area when it was still known as Danish West Indies. She always treats guests to a cup of bush tea—an herbal concoction made with lemongrass from her grandmother's garden—but in June, guests can also expect to sip a mango smoothie during the fruit's peak season. Shuttle to St. John If you live on St. Thomas, St. John is your sister island and the ferry your means of transport. It's worth adventuring on a 20-minute, camera-friendly ride over to Cruz Bay, where fixed-rate taxis await to zip visitors to beaches like Trunk Bay or Oppenheimer Beach. Or travel over for The Longboard alone. Chat up the mixologists at the open-air bar during happy hour from 2-4 p.m., when specialty cocktails are just $10. Farmers Market Saturday mornings are for fresh fish, vegetables, and the milk of just-cut coconuts at the Farmers Market. And, for the lucky early birds, a taste of Miss Annette's 'goat water.' This slow-cooked goat stew is available many weekends, but for those who miss it, there's Blue Mango Tours. Guides, like owner Mike Motylinski, can show you where else to find this Caribbean favorite. Where to stay The Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas Each of the 180 rooms at The Ritz-Carlton have oceanfront views, meaning you're just steps from the water. Splash in the waves before making your own at the new family pool with a waterslide. Although The Ritz-Carlton is a luxury resort, there are a number of new casual additions in line with St. Thomas' island vibe, including flip-flop friendly Sails Beachside Restaurant & Bar, and Southwind grab-and-go coffee shop. The Pink Palm Hotel The Pink Palm's 28 rooms—decorated in rich green, sandy white, and seashell pink tones—offer up an adults-only enclave perched high on a hillside in the heart of U.S. Virgin Islands capital Charlotte Amalie. That means guests are in the center of the action for dining and nightlife, with sweeping views of the Caribbean Sea. The Hideaway at Hull Bay This hotel's secluded beachfront is far from a traditional hotel experience thanks to its airy, spacious cottages (eight) and villas (two). But the biodiversity spread across two acres is just as much a feast for the eyes as the foodie. Farm-to-table fare at Hideaway Dining rotates daily, with freshly harvested potatoes, eggplant, and herbs grown on-site. Or visit The Shack next door, with casual fare like fish tacos and burgers served with a side of live entertainment most nights. How to get there, and around:In June, there is direct air to Cyril E. King Airport (STT) from more than a dozen U.S. cities. Major carriers include American Airlines, JetBlue, and are fixed-rate per person, not per ride, across St. Thomas based on distance to and from popular landmarks (most prefer cash). Sedans or minivans with a driver can also be contracted with hourly rates. There are no rideshare services on St. Thomas or neighboring islands. When to go Summer in St. Thomas hovers around 84°F, and June averages the least rainfall of the season, with just 2.5 inches over the course of the month. Carley Thornell is a Boston-based Pulitzer Prize-winning writer who's been to 60-plus countries. Her work has appeared in Travel + Leisure, Afar, Robb Report, Skift, Global Traveler, OpenTable, USA Today, and many other publications. Her beats (and passions) include sustainability, diversity and accessibility, epicurean delights, luxury travel, and—most recently with the addition of her son—family travel.
National Geographic
a day ago
- Science
- National Geographic
These 4,500-year-old rattles may be among the world's oldest toys
Clay rattles made in Syria about 4,500 years ago were designed to 'amuse and calm' infants, according to a new study. But some archaeologists think they were used in rituals to dispel evil spirits, or that they might have served both purposes. 'They have little handles that are too small for me, and I have quite small hands,' says archaeologist Mette Marie Hald from the National Museum of Denmark in Copenhagen. 'They are for infants or toddlers.' In the new study published in the journal Childhood in the Past, Hald and her co-authors describe artifacts kept by the museum after excavations of an ancient mound in Hama in Syria in the 1930s. The possible playthings are among the oldest toys in the archaeological record. (Who made these unusual ancient 'puppets'—and left them atop a pyramid?) Early excavations Many of the artifacts ended up in museums throughout the Middle East, including Syria's National Museum of Damascus. But the expedition members took some back to Denmark, where they were placed in storage until Hald and her colleagues re-examined them. The new analysis has established that at least 21 of the clay fragments come from rattles made between about 4,500 and 4,000 years ago, during the Early Bronze Age, when Hama was one of several ancient city-states in the region. Hald says part of one rattle had been misidentified as a 'sieve' because it contained holes; and the hollow handle of another was mislabeled as 'piping.' Examples of handles and bodies from the Hama rattle assemblage are superimposed over the outline of a complete rattle from another site in Syria called Al-Zalaqiyat. Photoillustration by G. Mouamar, the National Museum of Denmark Bronze Age rattles or wards against evil? The analysis shows the fragments are almost identical in style and size to an unbroken rattle found at an ancient cemetery a few miles north of Hama, named Al-Zalaqiyat, and to rattles from other Early Bronze Age sites now held at the museum in Damascus. Those rattles were filled with pebbles or small clay pellets, to make a noise when they were shaken—similar to some modern baby toys—and so the authors suggest they were designed for small children to play with. Some archaeologists have proposed that the rattles were 'apotropaic'—meaning the noise they made was designed to ward off evil spirits—or that they were used as musical instruments. But the study's lead author, archaeologist Georges Mouamar of the National Museum of Denmark and the French research agency CNRS, carried out experiments with the rattle from Al-Zalaqiyat and determined it was too small to have made much noise. 'It just made a tiny little sound,' Hald says. 'It wouldn't have been very entertaining as a musical instrument.' The Hama fragments were also found in what had been a domestic neighborhood, rather than a temple or a burial ground; and this strengthened the idea they were used by children, Hald says. The analysis also determined that the Hama fragments were made from the same distinctive mix of clays as commercial pottery from the ancient city—implying the rattles were made by professional potters for sale at street markets to parents. The Hama rattles seem well-finished, with intricate designs in pottery glaze that support the idea they were made by professionals, Hald says. Hama was a regional center during the Early Bronze Age, and so the rattles may have been mass produced there for sale elsewhere. Other types of rattles have been found in other parts of Syria and the Middle East—rattles shaped like animals, for example, are often found in northern Syria—and so it is likely local potters made them in locally popular styles, she says. Fragments of 4500-year-old baby rattles match the chemical makeup of other ceramic housewares from Hama. Photograph by John Fhær Engedal Nissen, the National Museum of Denmark The new study has stirred debate among experts over whether the Hama rattles and others like them served a ritual or playful purpose. Archaeologist Elynn Gorris of Belgium's University of Louvain, who was not involved in the study, is concerned that the Hama rattles, while small, would have been too large and heavy for babies to hold. But she allows that they would have been suitable for toddlers. Gorris notes that similar rattles have been found at archaeological sites in the Americas—including a similar rattle from California that may be up to 1,000 years old—where evidence indicates they were used traditionally in rituals and for making music, as they still are today. But 'this is not about wrong or right—this is an inclusive story,' she says. 'These could have been used by toddlers, but that doesn't exclude the fact that they could have been percussion instruments to keep rhythm for adults, for lullabies or for ritual songs.' Archaeologist Kristine Garroway, a professor at Hebrew Union College-Jewish Institute of Religion in Los Angeles who has studied clay rattles from the ancient Levant, is 'very convinced' by the study's findings. But she also thinks the rattles may have had a 'dual use,' first as apotropaic devices to scare evil spirits from homes and then as noisemakers to amuse small children. 'These could have been used in multiple different ways,' she says. (What can we learn from a Bronze Age lunchbox?) If the rattles are toys, then they are some of the earliest that survive—other contenders include a 5000-year-old chariot from Turkey and a 4000-year-old stone head, possibly from a doll, from an Italian island. The fact the researchers are thinking about ancient children is important, notes Garroway: 'Children get overlooked in the archaeological record, [so] to even stop and think that children could have been using these objects is amazing.' For Hald, all the evidence indicates the Hama rattles were designed to keep small children entertained. 'Parents in the past loved their children, just as we do today,' she says. 'But perhaps parents also needed to distract their children now and then so that they could have a bit of peace and quiet to themselves. Today, we use screens, back then it was rattles.'
